Custom Fit Footwear Study – From Cast to Concept

Shoemaker: La mer orthopedics | Documentation & Insights: Iris Tenkink

This project documents the creation of a custom-fit shoe. Through an iterative prototyping cycle, I observed how anatomical data, material placement, and functional testing shape the final product. While the outcome prioritized function, the process revealed design opportunities for sneakers: precision fit, iterative refinement, and consumer-centered solutions.

Anatomical Foundation – Scanning vs Casting

At a para-fencing competition, I observed Decathlon testing 3D scanning to capture the foot’s unique anatomy to create a universal shoe. This contrasted sharply with the orthopedic shoemaker’s plaster casting approach, where the foot was actively repositioned before the mold set.

Key Insight: Scanning records reality; casting corrects it.

Capturing Anatomy – Foam Print

A foam impression was taken to create custom insoles. This highlighted the importance of consumer insight: design starts with understanding the body’s needs.

From Cast to Last

The plaster cast was translated into a custom plastic last — the foundation for construction. This stage defined proportions, fit, and the baseline geometry of the shoe. Were the first prototype was build on.

Fitting & Iteration – Transparent Prototype

The shoemaker built a transparent fitting prototype “The Glass Slipper”. The clear upper and simple trial sole made it possible to observe alignment and pressure points directly. Adjustments were marked for alteration, mirroring the iteration cycles used in sneaker prototyping.

 

Concept Shoe – Temporary Prototype

A temporary concept shoe was built to test materials and functional reinforcements. This stage represented an iterative prototyping cycle, refining comfort and stability before committing to the final build.

 

Final shoe

The final product achieved its functional goals, providing anatomical support and durability.

Design Opportunity: Merging orthopedic precision with contemporary CMF strategy and expressive brand identity.